Contents
Knowing Your Options
Tips for Handling Pesticides
Determining Correct Dosage
Correct Storage and Disposal
How to Choose a Pest Control Company
How to Reduce Your Exposure to Pesticides
"Someone's Been Poisoned, Help"
Knowing Your Options
THEY'RE THERE. Whether you see them or not, you know
they're there--in your home, your vegetable garden, your lawn,
your fruit and shade trees, your flowers, and on your pets.
They are pests--insects, weeds, fungi, rodents, and others.
American households and their surrounding grounds are
frequent hosts to common structural pests (termites,
cockroaches, fleas, rodents), as well as a wide array of pests
that are usually associated with agriculture. Because pests are
all around--sometimes creating a nuisance but sometimes causing
severe financial loss--consumers have turned increasingly to
pesticides to control them. Just as "pests" can be anything
from cockroaches in your kitchen to algae in your swimming
pool, pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, fungicides,
rodenticides, disinfectants, and plant growth
regulators--anything that kills or otherwise controls a pest of
any kind.
The first and most important step in pest control is to
identify the pest. Some pests, or signs of them, are
unmistakable. Others are not. For example, some plant
"diseases" are really indications of insufficient soil
nutrients.
Three information sources are particularly helpful in
identifying pests and appropriate pest control methods:
reference books (such as insect field guides or gardening
books), the County Extension Service, and pesticide dealers.
The next step is to decide what level of treatment you
want. Is anyone in the family or neighborhood particularly
sensitive to chemical pesticides? Does your lawn really need to
be totally weed-free? Do you need every fruit, vegetable, or
flower you grow, or could you replace certain pest-prone
species or varieties with hardier substitutes? Will you accept
some blemished produce? In other words, do you need to
eliminate all weeds and insects, or can you tolerate some
pests?
Remember that total pest elimination is virtually
impossible, and trying to eradicate pests from your premises
will lead you to more extensive, repeated chemical treatments
than are required for pest control. Remember, too, that to
manage any pest effectively, you must use each method (or
combination of methods) correctly. Finally, you must also abide
by all pertinent local, state, and federal regulations.
Federal Registration of Pesticides
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) "registers"
(licenses) thousands of pesticide products for use in and
around homes. No pesticide may legally be sold or used in the
United States unless its label bears an EPA registration
number. The Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act
(FIRA), which governs the registration of pesticides, prohibits
the use of any pesticide product in a manner that is
inconsistent with the product labeling.
Prevention
There is another important question to ask in making pest
control decisions: is there something on your premises that
needlessly invites pest infestations? The answer to this
question may lead you to take some common-sense steps to modify
pest habitat.
* Remove water sources. All pests, vertebrate or
invertebrate, need water for survival. Fix leaky plumbing
and do not let water accumulate anywhere in your home.
This means no water in trays under your houseplants
overnight if you have a cockroach infestation.
* Remove food sources (if the pest's food is anything other
than the plant or animal you are trying to protect). For
example, this could mean storing your food in sealed glass
or plastic containers, avoiding the habit of leaving your
pet's food out for extended periods of time, and placing
your refuse in tightly covered, heavy-gauge garbage cans.
* Remove or destroy pest shelter. Caulk cracks and crevices
to control cockroaches; remove piles of wood from under or
around your home in order to avoid attracting termites;
* Remove and destroy diseased plants, tree prunings, and
fallen fruit that might harbor pests.
* Remove breeding sites. The presence of pet manure attracts
flies, litter encourages rodents, and standing water
provides a perfect breeding place for mosquitoes.
* Remove sources of preventable stress to plants (flowers,
trees, vegetable plants, and turf). Plant at the optimum
time of year. Use mulch to reduce weed competition and
maintain even soil temperature and moisture. Provide
adequate water.
* Use preventive cultural practices, such as careful
selection of disease-resistant seed or plant varieties,
companion planting to exploit the insect-repellent
properties of certain plants, strategic use of "trap"
crops to lure pests away from crops you wish to protect,
crop rotation and diversification, and optimum use of
spacing. Make sure you have good drainage and soil
aeration.
Non-chemical Controls
If you practice preventive techniques such as those
mentioned above, you will reduce your chances, or frequency, of
pest infestation. However, if you already have an infestation,
are there any pest control alternatives besides chemical
pesticides?
The answer is an emphatic "yes." One or a combination of
several non-chemical treatment alternatives may be appropriate.
Your best strategy depends on the pest and the site where the
pest occurs.
Non-chemical alternatives include:
* Biological treatments, including predators such as purple
martins, praying mantises, and lady bugs; parasites; and
pathogens such as bacteria, viruses (generally not
available to homeowners), and other microorganisms like
Bacillus thuringiensis and milky spore disease.
There is no way to be certain how long predators will stay
in target areas. Contact your County Extension Service for
information about how to protect desirable predators.
* Mechanical treatments, including cultivating to control
weeds, hand-picking weeds from turf and pests from plants,
trapping to control rodents and some insects, and
screening living space to limit mosquito and fly access.
Non-chemical pest control methods really work. They do
have some disadvantages: the results are not immediate,
and it requires some work to make a home or garden less
attractive to pests. But the advantages of non-chemical
methods are many. Compared to chemical pesticide
treatments, such methods are generally effective for
longer periods of time. They do not create hardy,
pesticide-resistant pest populations. And they can be used
without safeguards, because they pose virtually no hazards
to human health or the environment.
Chemical Controls
If you decide that chemical treatment can provide the best
solution to your pest problem, and you want to control the
pests yourself rather than turning the problem over to a
professional pest control operator, then you have an important
decision to make: which product to choose. Before making that
decision, learn as much as you can about a product's active
ingredient--its biologically active agent. Is it
"broad-spectrum" in its mode of action (effective against a
broad range of pests), or is it "selective" (effective against
only a few pest species)? How rapidly does the active
ingredient break down once it is introduced into the
environment? Is it suspected of causing chronic health effects?
Is it toxic to non-target wildlife and house pets? Is it known,
or suspected, to leach through soil into ground water?
Here again, your County Extension Service, reference
books, pesticide dealers, your state pesticide agency, or your
regional EPA office may be able to provide assistance. (Lists
of State and EPA pesticide contacts are provided at the end of
this booklet.)
When you have narrowed your choices of active ingredients,
you are ready to select a pesticide product. Choose the least
toxic pesticide that can achieve the results you desire. Read
the label. It lists active ingredients, the target pests (for
example, mites, flies, Japanese beetle grubs, broad-leafed
weeds, algae, etc.), and the sites where the product may be
used (for example, lawns, specific vegetable crops, roses,
swimming pools, etc.). Be sure the site of your pest problem is
included among the sites listed on the label.
Pesticide active ingredients are formulated in many ways.
Choose the formulation best suited to your site and the pest
you are trying to control. The most common types of home-use
pesticide formulations include:
* Solutions, which contain the active ingredient and one or
more additives, and readily mix with water.
* Aerosols, which contain one or more active ingredients and
a solvent. They are ready for immediate use as is.
* Dusts, which contain active ingredients plus a very fine
dry inert carrier such as clay, talc, or volcanic ash.
Dusts are ready for immediate use and are applied dry.
* Granulars, which are similar to dusts, but with larger and
heavier particles for broadcast applications.
* Baits, which are active ingredients mixed with food or
other substances to attract the pest.
* Wettable powders, which are dry, finely ground
formulations that generally are mixed with water for spray
application. Some also may be used as dusts.
Depending on the type of formulation you choose, you may
need to dilute or mix the product. Prepare only the amount that
you need for each application; don't prepare larger amounts to
store for possible future use. (See "Determining Correct
Dosage.")
Once you have identified the pest, selected the right
pesticide, and determined proper dosage, you are ready to use
the product. Application technique and timing are every bit as
important as the material used, so read the label for
directions. That advice--to read the label--is repeated so
often in this guide that it may become tiresome. But in fact,
the advice cannot be repeated often enough. Read the label
before you buy a product, and again before you mix it, before
you apply it, before you store it, and before you throw it
away. The directions on a label are there for a very good
reason: to help you achieve maximum benefits with minimum risk.
But these benefits depend upon proper use of the products.
Chemical pesticides also have their disadvantages. They
must be used very carefully to achieve results while protecting
users and the environment. The results are generally temporary,
and repeated treatments may be required.
Therefore, to achieve best results when you do use
chemical pesticides, use preventive and non-chemical treatments
along with them. This will reduce the need for repeated
applications.
You should always evaluate your pesticide use, comparing
pre-treatment and post-treatment conditions. You should weigh
the benefits of short-term chemical pesticide control against
the benefits of long-term control using a variety of
techniques. Knowledge of a range of pest control techniques
gives you the ability to pick and choose among them. Pests,
unfortunately, will always be around us, and, if you know about
all pest control options, you will know what to do the next
time THEY'RE THERE.
Tips for Handling Pesticides
Pesticides are not "safe." They are produced specifically
because they are toxic to something. By heeding all the
following tips, you can reduce your risks when you use
pesticides.
* All pesticides legally marketed in the United States must
bear an EPA-approved label; check the label to make sure
it bears an EPA registration number.
* Before using a pesticide, read the entire label. Even if
you have used the pesticide before, read the label
again--don't trust your memory. Use of any pesticide in
any way that is not consistent with label directions and
precautions is subject to civil and/or criminal penalties.
* Do not use a "restricted use" pesticide unless you are a
formally trained, certified pesticide applicator. These
products are too dangerous to be used without special
training.
* Follow use directions carefully. Use only the amount
directed, at the time and under the conditions specified,
and for the purpose listed. Don't think that twice the
dosage will do twice the job. It won't. What's worse, you
may harm yourself, others, or whatever you are trying to
protect.
* Look for one of the following signal words on the front of
the label. It will tell you how hazardous a pesticide is
if swallowed, inhaled, or absorbed through skin.
"DANGER"
means highly poisonous;
"WARNING"
means moderately hazardous;
"CAUTION"
means least hazardous.
* Wear the items of protective clothing the label requires:
for example, long sleeves and long pants, impervious
gloves, rubber (not canvas or leather) footwear, hat, and
goggles. Personal protective clothing usually is available
at home building supply stores.
* If you must mix or dilute the pesticide, do so outdoors or
in a well-ventilated area. Mix only the amount you need
and use portions listed on the label.
* Keep children and pets away from areas where you mix or
apply pesticides.
* If a spill occurs, clean it up promptly. Don't wash it
away. Instead, sprinkle with sawdust, vermiculite, or
kitty litter; sweep into a plastic garbage bag; and
dispose with the rest of your trash.
* Remove pets (including birds and fish) and toys from the
area to be treated. Remove food, dishes, pots, and pans
before treating kitchen cabinets, and don't let pesticides
get on these surfaces. Wait until shelves dry before
refilling them.
* Allow adequate ventilation when applying pesticides
indoors. Go away from treated areas for at least the
length of time prescribed by the label. When spraying
outdoors, close the windows of your home.
* Most surface sprays should be applied only to limited
areas; don't treat entire floors, walls, or ceilings.
* Never place rodent or insect baits where small children or
pets can reach them.
* When applying spray or dust outdoors, cover fish ponds,
and avoid applying pesticides near wells. Always avoid
over-application when treating lawn, shrubs, or gardens.
Runoff or seepage from excess pesticide usage may
contaminate water supplies. Excess spray may leave harmful
residues on home-grown produce.
* Keep herbicides away from non-target plants. Avoid
applying any pesticide to blooming plants, especially if
you see honeybees or other pollinating insects around
them. Avoid birds' nests when spraying trees.
* Never spray or dust outdoors on a windy day.
* Never smoke while applying pesticides. You could easily
carry traces of the pesticide from hand to mouth. Also,
some products are flammable.
* Never transfer pesticides to containers not intended for
them, such as empty soft drink bottles. Keep pesticides in
containers that clearly and prominently identify the
contents. Properly refasten all childproof caps.
* Shower and shampoo thoroughly after using a pesticide
product. Wash the clothing that you wore when applying the
product separately from the family laundry. To prevent
tracking chemicals inside, also rinse boots and shoes
before entering your home.
* Before using a pesticide product, know what to do in case
of accidental poisoning.
* To remove residues, use a bucket to triple rinse tools or
equipment, including any containers or utensils used to
mix the chemicals. Then pour the rinse water into the
pesticide container and reuse the solution by applying it
according to the pesticide product label directions.
* Evaluate the results of your pesticide use.
Determining Correct Dosage
So much information is packed onto pesticide labels that
there is usually no room to include examples of each dilution
applicable to the multitude of home-use situations. As a
result, label examples may inadvertently encourage preparation
of more pesticide than is needed. The excess may contribute to
overuse, safety problems related to storage and disposal, or
simply wasted costs of unused pesticide.
Determining the correct dosage for different types of
pesticides requires some simple calculations. The following
information can help you to prepare the minimum quantity of
pesticide needed for your immediate use situation.
For example, the product label says, "For the control of
aphids on tomatoes, mix 8 fluid ounces of pesticide into 1
gallon water and spray until foliage is wet." Your experience
has been that your six tomato plants require only one quart of
pesticide to wet all the foliage. Therefore, only 2 fluid
ounces of the pesticide should be mixed into 1 quart of water.
Why? Because a quart is one-fourth of a gallon, and 2 fluid
ounces mixed into 1 quart make the same strength spray
recommended by the label, but in a quantity that can be used up
all at once.
Consumers can solve problems similar to this one with
careful arithmetic, good measurements, and intelligent use of
the information provided here.
How to Measure
If you need to determine the size of a square or
rectangular area, such as a lawn for herbicide application,
measure and multiply the length and width. For example, an area
10 feet long by 8 feet wide contains 80 square feet. Common
area measurements may involve square yards (1 square yard = 9
square feet) or square feet (1 square foot = 144 square
inches).
If you need to determine the volume of a space such as a
room, measure and multiply the room's length, width, and
height. For example, a space 10 feet long, 8 feet wide, and 8
feet high contains a volume of 640 cubic feet. You would use
this procedure, for instance, for an aerosol release to control
cockroaches.
Most residential-use pesticides are measured in terms of
volume. Some common equivalents are:
1 gallon (gal.) = 128 fluid ounces (ft. oz.)
= 4 quarts (qt.)
= 8 pints (pt.)
= 16 cups
1 qt. = 32 ft. oz.
= 2 pt.
= 4 cups
1 pt. = 16 ft. oz.
= 2 cups
1 cup = 8 ft. oz.
1 tablespoon = 1/2 fl. oz.
= 3 teaspoons
1 teaspoon = 1/8 ft. oz.
In measuring teaspoons or tablespoons of pesticide, use
only level spoonfuls, and never use the same measuring devices
for food preparation.
The following table provides examples to help you convert
label information to your specific use situations. "Amount" can
be any measure of pesticide quantity. However, the same unit of
measure must be used on both sides of the chart. For example, 8
fluid ounces per gallon of water is equivalent to 2 fluid
ounces per quart of water.
Not all dosage rates are included in the examples given
here. For rates not included, remember that, for pesticides not
diluted with water, proportionally change both the quantity of
pesticide and the area, volume, or number of items treated. For
example, one-half pound per 1,000 square feet is equivalent to
one-quarter pound per 500 square feet. For a pesticide that is
diluted with water, proportionally change the quantity of
pesticide, the quantity of water, and the area, volume, or
number of items treated. For example, one-half pound of
pesticide in 1 gallon of water applied to 1,000 square feet is
equivalent to 1 pound of pesticide in 2 gallons of water
applied to 2,000 square feet.
There is a point at which measurements needed for smaller
quantities of pesticides are too minute to be accurately
measured with typical domestic measuring devices. In such
cases, the user can either mix the larger volume, realizing
that there will be leftover material; obtain a more accurate
measuring device, such as a graduated cylinder or a scale which
measures small weights; or search for an alternative pesticide
or less concentrated formulation of the same pesticide.
Correct Storage and Disposal
The following tips on home storage and disposal can help
you handle pesticides correctly.
Storage
* Buy only enough product to carry you through the use
season, to reduce storage problems.
* Store pesticides away from children and pets. A locked
cabinet in a well-ventilated utility area or garden shed
is best.
* Store flammable liquids outside living quarters and away
from an ignition source.
* Never put pesticides in cabinets with, or near, food,
medical supplies, or cleaning materials. Always store
pesticides in their original containers, complete with
labels that list ingredients, directions for use, and
antidotes in case of accidental poisoning. Never transfer
pesticides to soft drink bottles or other containers that
children may associate with something to eat or drink.
Always properly refasten child-proof closures or lids.
* Avoid storing pesticides in places where flooding is
possible, or in open places where they might spill or leak
into the environment. If you have any doubt about the
content of a container, dispose of it with your trash.
Disposal
* The best way to dispose of a small, excess amount of
pesticide is to use it--apply it--according to directions
on the product label. If you cannot use it, ask your
neighbor whether he/she can use it. If all the pesticide
cannot be used, first check with your local health
department or solid waste management agency to determine
whether your community has a household hazardous waste
collection program or any other program for handling
disposal of pesticides.
* If no community programs exist, follow label directions
regarding container disposal. To dispose of less than a
full container of a liquid pesticide, leave it in the
original container, with the cap securely in place to
prevent spills or leaks. Wrap the container in several
layers of newspapers and tie securely. Then place the
package in a covered trash can for routine collection with
municipal refuse. If you do not have a regular trash
collection service, take the package to a permitted
landfill (unless your municipality has other
requirements).
Note: No more than one gallon of liquid pesticide should
be disposed of in this manner.
* Wrap individual packages of dry pesticide formulations in
several layers of newspaper, or place the package in a
tight carton or bag, and tape or tie it closed. As with
liquid formulations, place the package in a covered trash
can for routine collection.
Note: No more than 5 pounds of pesticide at a time should
be disposed of in this manner.
* Do not pour leftover pesticides down the sink or into the
toilet. Chemicals in pesticides could interfere with the
operation of wastewater treatment systems or could pollute
waterways, because many municipal systems cannot remove
all pesticide residues.
* An empty pesticide container can be as hazardous as a full
one because of residues remaining inside. Never reuse such
a container. When empty, a pesticide container should be
carefully rinsed and thoroughly drained. Liquids used to
rinse the container should be added to the sprayer or to
the container previously used to mix the pesticide and
used according to label directions.
Empty product containers made of plastic or metal should
be punctured to prevent reuse. (Do not puncture or burn a
pressurized product container--it could explode.) Glass
containers should be rinsed and drained, as described
above, and the cap or closure replaced securely. After
rinsing, an empty mixing container or sprayer may also be
wrapped and placed in the trash.
* If you have any doubts about proper pesticide disposal,
contact your state or local health department, your solid
waste management agency, or the regional EPA office.
How to Choose a Pest Control Company
Termites are chomping away at your house. Roaches are
taking over your kitchen. Mouse droppings dot your dresser
drawer. You've got a pest control problem, and you've decided
that it's too serious for you to solve on your own. You've
decided you need a professional exterminator.
If you find yourself in a situation like this, what can
you do to be sure that the pest control company you hire will
do a good job? Here are some questions you can ask:
1. Does the company have a good track record?
Don't rely on the company salesman to answer this
question; research the answer yourself. Ask around among
neighbors and friends; have any of them dealt with the company
before? Were they satisfied with the service they received?
Call the Better Business Bureau or local consumer office; have
they received any complaints about the company?
2. Does the company have insurance? What kind of insurance? Can
the salesman show some documentation to prove that the company
is insured?
Contractor's general liability insurance, including
insurance for sudden and accidental pollution, gives you as a
homeowner a certain degree of protection should an accident
occur while pesticides are being applied in your home.
Contractor's workmen's compensation insurance can also help
protect you should an employee of the contractor be injured
while working in your home.
In most states, pest control companies are not required to
buy insurance, but you should think twice before dealing with a
company that is uninsured.
3. Is the company licensed?
Regulatory agencies in some states issue state pest
control licenses. Although the qualifications for a license
vary from state to state, at a minimum the license requires
that each company have a certified pesticide applicator present
in the office on a daily basis to supervise the work of
exterminators using restricted-use pesticides. (Certified
applicators are formally trained and "certified" as qualified
to use or supervise the use of pesticides that are classified
for restricted use.) If restricted-use pesticides are to be
applied on your premises, make sure the pest control operator's
license is current. Also ask if the company's employees are
bonded.
You may want to contact your state lead pesticide agency
to ask about its pesticide certification and training programs
and to inquire if periodic recertification is required for pest
control operators.
In addition to the licenses required in some states, some
cities also issue pest control licenses. Again, qualifications
vary, but possession of a city license--where they are
available--is one more assurance that the company you are
dealing with is reputable and responsible.
4. Is the company affiliated with a professional pest control
association?
Professional associations--whether national, state, or
local--keep members informed of new developments in pest
control methods, safety, training, research, and regulation.
They also have codes of ethics that members agree to abide by.
The fact that a company, small or large, chooses to affiliate
itself with a professional association signals its concern for
the quality of its work.
5. Does the company stand behind its work? What assurances does
the company make?
You should think twice about dealing with a company
unwilling to stand behind its work. Be sure to find out what
you must do to keep your part of the bargain. For example, in
the case of termite control treatments, a guarantee may be
invalidated if structural alterations are made without prior
notice to the pest control company.
6. Is the company willing, and able, to discuss the treatment
proposed for your home?
Selecting a pest control service is just as important as
selecting other professional services. Look for the same high
degree of competence you would expect from a doctor or lawyer.
The company should inspect your premises and outline a
recommended control program, including what pests are to be
controlled; the extent of the infestation; what pesticide
formulation will be used in your home and why; what techniques
will be used in application; what alternatives to the
formulation and techniques could be used instead; what special
instructions you should follow to reduce your exposure to the
pesticide (such as vacating the house, emptying the cupboards,
removing pets, etc.); and what you can do to minimize your pest
problems in the future.
Contracts should be jointly developed. Any safety concerns
should be noted and reflected in the choice of pesticides to be
used. These concerns could include allergies, age of occupants
(infants or elderly), or pets. You may want to get two to
three, bids from different companies--by value, not price. What
appears to be a bargain may merit a second look.
Even after you have hired a company, you should continue
your vigilance. Evaluate results. If you have reason to believe
that something has gone wrong with the pesticide application,
contact the company and/or your state lead pesticide agency.
Don't let your guard down, and don't stop asking questions.
How to Reduce Your Exposure to Pesticides
Because chemical pesticides are so widely used in our
society, and because of the properties of many of the
chemicals, low levels of pesticide residues are found
throughout the environment. Pesticides reach us in a variety of
ways--through food, water, and air.
In regulating pesticides, EPA strives to ensure that
lawful use of these products will not result in harmful
exposures. Proper use of registered products should yield
residue levels that are well within established safety
standards. Therefore, the average American's exposure to
low-level residues, though fairly constant, should not cause
alarm.
Still, many people want to learn what choices they can
make to further reduce their exposure to any potential risks
associated with pesticides. By limiting your exposure to these
products, you can keep your risks to a minimum.
Below you will find descriptions of the main pathways of
human exposure to pesticides, as well as suggestions on ways to
reduce overall exposure and attendant risks. If, however, you
suspect that you suffer from serious chemical sensitivities,
consult an expert to develop a more personally tailored
approach to managing this problem.
Exposure Through Food
Commercial Food
Throughout life--beginning even before birth--we are all
exposed to pesticides. A major source of exposure is through
our diets. We constantly consume small amounts of pesticides.
Fruits and vegetables, as well as meat, poultry, eggs, and
milk, are all likely to contain measurable pesticide residues.
EPA sets standards, called tolerances, to limit the amount
of pesticide residues that legally may remain in or on food or
animal feed marketed in U.S. commerce. Both domestic and
imported foods are monitored by the Food and Drug
Administration (FDA) and the U.S. Department of Agriculture
(USDA) to ensure compliance with these tolerances. Further,
since pesticide residues generally tend to degrade over time
and through processing, residue concentrations in or on most
foods are well below legal tolerance levels by the time the
foods are purchased.
Although EPA does limit dietary pesticide exposure through
tolerances, you may wish to take extra precautions. You can
take several steps to reduce your exposure to residues in
purchased food.
* Rinse fruit and vegetables thoroughly with water; scrub
them with a brush and peel them, if possible. Although
this surface cleaning will not remove "systemic" pesticide
residues taken up into the growing fruit or vegetable, it
will remove most of the existing surface residues, not to
mention any dirt.
* Cook or bake foods to reduce residues of some (but not
all) pesticides.
* Trim the fat from meat and poultry. Discard the fats and
oils in broths and pan drippings, since residues of some
pesticides concentrate in fat.
Home-grown Food
Growing some of your own food can be both a pleasurable
activity and a way to reduce your exposure to pesticide
residues in food. But, even here, there are some things you may
want to do to assure that exposure is limited.
* Before converting land in an urban or suburban area to
gardening, find out how the land was used previously.
Choose a site that had limited (or no) chemical
applications and where drift or runoff from your
neighbor's activities will not result in unintended
pesticide residues on your produce. Choose a garden site
strategically to avoid these potential routes of entry, if
possible.
If you are taking over an existing garden plot, be aware
that the soil may contain pesticide residues from previous
gardening activities. These residues may remain in the
soil for several years, depending on the persistence of
the pesticides that were used. Rather than waiting for the
residues to decline naturally over time, you may speed the
process.
* Plant an interim, non-food, crop like annual rye grass,
clover, or alfalfa. Such crops, with their dense, fibrous
root systems, will take up some of the lingering pesticide
residues. Then discard the crops--don't work them back
into the soil--and continue to alternate food crops with
cover crops in the off season.
* During sunny periods, turn over the soil as often as every
two to three days for a week or two. The sunlight will
help to break down, or photodegrade, some of the pesticide
residues.
Once you do begin gardening, develop strategies that will
reduce your need for pesticides while maintaining good
crop yields.
* Concentrate on building your garden's soil, since healthy
soil grows healthy plants. Feed the soil with compost,
manure, etc., to increase its capacity to support strong
crops.
* Select seeds and seedlings from hardy, disease-resistant
varieties. The resulting plants are less likely to need
pesticides in order to flourish.
* Avoid monoculture gardening techniques. Instead, alternate
rows of different kinds of plants to prevent significant
pest problems from developing.
* Don't plant the same crop in the same spot year after year
if you want to reduce plant susceptibility to
over-wintered pests.
* Become familiar with integrated pest management (IPM)
techniques, so that you can manage any pest outbreaks that
do occur without relying solely on pesticides.
* Mulch your garden with leaves, hay, grass clippings,
shredded/chipped bark, or seaweed. Avoid using newspapers
to keep down weeds, and sewage sludge to fertilize plants.
Newsprint may contain heavy metals; sludge may contain
heavy metals and pesticides, both of which can leach into
your soil.
Food from the Wild
While it might seem that hunting your own game, catching
your own fish, or gathering wild plant foods would reduce your
overall exposure to pesticides, this isn't necessarily so. Wild
foods hunted, caught, or gathered in areas where pesticides are
frequently used outdoors may contain pesticide residues.
Migratory species also may contain pesticide residues if these
chemicals are used anywhere in their flyways.
Tolerances generally are not established or enforced for
pesticides found in wild game, fowl, fish, or plants. Thus, if
you consume food from the wild, you may want to take the
following steps to reduce your exposure to pesticide residues.
* Because wild game is very lean, there is less fat in which
pesticides can accumulate. However, avoid hunting in areas
where pesticide usage is very high.
* Avoid fishing in water bodies where water contamination is
known to have occurred. Pay attention to posted signs
warning of contamination.
* You may want to consult with fish and game officials where
you plan to hunt or fish to determine whether there are
any pesticide problems associated with that area.
* When picking wild plant foods, avoid gathering right next
to a road, utility right-of-way, or hedgerow between farm
fields which probably have been treated (directly or
indirectly) with pesticides. Instead, seek out fields that
have not been used to produce crops, deep woods, or other
areas where pesticide use is unlikely.
* When preparing wild foods, trim fat from meat, and discard
skin of fish to remove as many fat-soluble pesticide
residues as possible. For wild plant foods, follow the
tips provided for commercial food.
Exposure Through Water
Whether it comes from surface or ground water sources, the
water flowing from your tap may contain low levels of
pesticides.
When pesticides are applied to land, a certain amount may
run off the land into streams and rivers. This runoff, coupled
with industrial discharges, can result in low-level
contamination of surface water. In certain hydrogeologic
settings--for example, sandy soil over a ground water source
that is near the surface--pesticides can leach down through the
soil to the ground water.
EPA's Water Program sets standards and provides advisory
levels for pesticides and other chemicals that may be found in
drinking water. Public municipal water systems test their water
periodically and provide treatment or alternate supply sources
if residue problems arise. Private wells generally are not
tested unless the well owner requests such analysis.
If you get your drinking water from a private well, you
can reduce the chance of contaminating your water
supply by following these guidelines:
* Be cautious about using pesticides and other chemicals on
your property, especially if the well is shallow or is not
tightly constructed. Check with your EPA regional office
or County Extension Service before using a pesticide
outdoors, to determine whether it is known or suspected to
leach to ground water. Never use or mix a pesticide near
your well head.
* To avoid pesticide contamination problems, be sure your
well extends downward to aquifers that are below, and
isolated from, surface aquifers, and be sure the well
shaft is tightly sealed. If you have questions about
pesticide or other chemical residues in your well water,
contact your state or county health department.
* If your well water is analyzed and found to contain
pesticide residue levels above established or recommended
health standards, you may wish to use an alternate water
source such as bottled water for drinking and cooking. The
best choice is distilled spring water in glass bottles.
Ask your local bottler for the results of a recent
pesticide analysis.
Exposure Through Air
Outdoors, air currents may carry pesticides that were
applied on adjacent property or miles away. But there are steps
you can take to reduce your exposure to airborne pesticide
residue, or drift, outdoors. To reduce your exposure to
airborne pesticides:
* Avoid applying pesticides in windy weather (when winds
exceed 10 miles per hour).
* Use coarse droplet nozzles to reduce misting.
* Apply the spray as close to the target as possible.
* Keep the wind to your side so that sprays and dusts do not
blow into your face.
* If someone else is applying pesticides outdoors near your
home, stay indoors with your pets and children, keeping
doors and windows closed. If it is very windy during the
pesticide application, stay inside for an hour or two.
* If pesticides are applied frequently near your home (if
you live next to fields receiving regular pesticide
treatment), consider planting a buffer zone of
thick-branched trees and shrubs upwind to help serve as a
buffer zone and windbreak.
* Many local governments require public notification in
advance of area-wide or broad-scale pesticide spray
activities and programs--through announcements in
newspapers, letters to area residents, or posting of signs
in areas to be treated. Some communities have also enacted
"right to know" ordinances which require public
notification, usually through posting, of lawn treatments
and other small-scale outdoor pesticide uses. If your
local government does not require notifications, either
for large- or small-scale applications, you may want to
work with local officials to develop such requirements.
Indoors, the air you breathe may bear pesticide residues
long after a pesticide has been applied to objects in your
home or office, or to indoor surfaces and crawl spaces.
Pesticides dissipate more slowly indoors than outdoors. In
addition, energy efficiency features built into many homes
reduce air exchange, aggravating the problem. To limit
your exposure to indoor pesticide residues:
* Use pesticides indoors only when absolutely necessary, and
then use only limited amounts. Provide adequate
ventilation during and after application. If you hire a
pest control company, oversee its activities carefully.
* If pesticides are used inside your home, air out the house
often, since outdoor air generally is fresher and purer
than indoor air. Open doors and windows, and run overhead
or whole-house fans to exchange indoor air for outside air
rapidly and completely.
* If pesticides have been used extensively and an indoor air
contamination problem has developed, clean--scrub--all
surfaces where pesticides may have settled, including
cracks and crevices. Consult a knowledgeable professional
for advice on appropriate cleaning materials if soap and
water are insufficient.
Exposure Through Home Usage
Over a lifetime, diet is the most significant source of
pesticide exposure for the general public. However, on a
short-term basis, the most significant exposure source is
personal pesticide use.
An array of pesticide products, ranging widely in toxicity
and potential effects, is available "off the shelf" to the
private user. No special training is required to purchase or
use these products, and no one is looking over the users'
shoulder, monitoring their vigilance in reading and following
label instructions. Yet many of these products are hazardous,
especially if they are stored, handled, or applied improperly.
To minimize the hazards and maximize the benefits that
pesticides bring, exercise caution and respect when using any
pesticide product.
* Consider pesticide labeling to be what it is intended to
be: your best guide to using pesticides safely and
effectively.
* Pretend that the pesticide product you are using is more
toxic than you think it is. Take special precautions to
ensure an extra margin of protection for yourself, your
family, and pets.
* Don't use more pesticide than the label says. You may not
achieve a higher degree of pest control, and you will
certainly experience a higher degree of risk.
* If you hire a pest control firm to do the job, ask the
company to use the least toxic or any chemical-free pest
control means available that will do the job. For example,
some home pest control companies offer an electro-gun
technique to control termite and similar infestations by
penetrating infested areas and "frying" the problem pests
without using any chemicals.
* And remember: sometimes a non-pesticidal approach is as
convenient and effective as its chemical alternatives.
Consider using such non-pesticidal approaches whenever
possible.
"Someone's Been Poisoned. Help!"
What To Do in a Pesticide Emergency
The potential for a pesticide to cause injury depends upon
several factors:
* Toxicity of the active ingredient. Toxicity is a measure
of the inherent ability of a chemical to produce injury.
Some pesticides, such as pyrethrins, have low human
toxicity while others, such as sodium fluoroacetate, are
extremely toxic.
* Dose. The greater the dose of a specific pesticide, i.e.
the amount absorbed, the greater the risk of injury. Dose
is dependent upon the absolute amount of the pesticide
absorbed relative to the weight of the person. Therefore,
small amounts of a pesticide might produce illness in a
small child while the same dose of the same pesticide in
an adult might be relatively harmless.
* Route of absorption. Swallowing a pesticide usually
creates the most serious problem. In practice, however,
the most common route of absorption of pesticides is
through the skin and the most toxic pesticides have
resulted in death through this route of exposure.
* Duration of exposure. The longer a person is exposed to
pesticides, the higher the level in the body. There is a
point at which an equilibrium will develop between the
intake and the output. Then, the level will no longer
continue to increase. However, this point may be either
above or below the known toxic level.
* Physical and chemical properties. The distribution and the
rates of breakdown of pesticides in the environment
significantly alter the likelihood that injury might
occur.
* Population at risk. Persons who run the greatest danger of
poisoning are those whose exposure is highest, such as
workers who mix, load, or apply pesticides. However, the
general public also faces the possibility of exposure.
Recognizing Pesticide Poisoning
Like other chemicals, pesticides may produce injury
externally or internally.
External irritants may cause contact-associated skin
disease primarily of an irritant nature--producing redness,
itching, or pimples--or an allergic skin reaction, producing
redness, swelling, or blistering. The mucous membranes of the
eyes, nose, mouth, and throat are also quite sensitive to
chemicals. Stinging and swelling can occur.
Internal injuries from any chemical may occur depending
upon where a chemical is transported in the body. Thus,
symptoms are dependent upon the organ involved. Shortness of
breath, clear saliva, or rapid breathing may occur as the
result of lung injury. Nausea, vomiting, abdominal cramps, or
diarrhea may result from direct injury to the gastrointestinal
tract. Excessive fatigue, sleepiness, headache, muscle
twitching, and loss of sensation may result from injury to the
nervous system. In general, different classes of pesticides
produce different sets of symptoms.
For example, organophosphate pesticides may produce
symptoms of pesticide poisoning affecting several different
organs, and may progress rapidly from very mild to severe.
Symptoms may progress in a matter of minutes from slight
difficulty with vision to paralysis of the diaphragm muscle,
causing inability to breathe.
Therefore, if someone develops symptoms after working with
pesticides, seek medical help promptly to determine if the
symptoms are pesticide-related. In certain cases, blood or
urine can be collected for analysis, or other specific exposure
tests can be made. It is better to be too cautious than too
late.
It is always important to avoid problems by minimizing
your exposure when mixing and applying pesticides by wearing
gloves and other protective clothing.
The appropriate first aid treatment depends upon which
pesticide was used. Here are some tips for first aid that may
precede, but should not substitute for, medical treatment:
* Poison on skin. Drench skin with water and remove
contaminated clothing. Wash skin and hair thoroughly with
soap and water. Dry victim and wrap in blanket. Later,
discard contaminated clothing or thoroughly wash it
separately from other laundry.
* Chemical burn on skin. Drench skin with water and remove
contaminated clothing. Cover burned area immediately with
loose, clean, soft cloth. Do not apply ointments, greases,
powders, or other drugs. Later, discard or thoroughly wash
contaminated clothing separately from other laundry.
* Poison in eye. Eye membranes absorb pesticides faster than
any other external part of the body; eye damage can occur
in a few minutes with some types of pesticides. Hold
eyelid open and wash eye quickly and gently with clean
running water from the tap or a hose for 15 minutes or
more. Do not use eye drops or chemicals or drugs in the
wash water.
* Inhaled poison. Carry or drag victim to fresh air
immediately. (If proper protection is unavailable to you,
call for emergency equipment from the Fire Department.)
Loosen victim's tight clothing. If the victim's skin is
blue or the victim has stopped breathing, give artificial
respiration and call rescue service for help. Open doors
and windows so no one else will be poisoned by fumes.
* Swallowed poison. A conscious victim should rinse his
mouth with plenty of water and then drink up to one quart
of milk or water to dilute the pesticide. Induce vomiting
only if instructions to do so are on the label. If there
is no label available to guide you, do not induce
vomiting. Never induce vomiting if the victim is
unconscious or is having convulsions.
In dealing with any poisoning, act fast; speed is crucial.
First Aid for Pesticide Poisoning
First aid is the first step in treating a pesticide
poisoning. Study the "Statement of Treatment" on the product
label before you use a pesticide. When you realize a pesticide
poisoning is occurring, be sure the victim is not being further
exposed to the poison before calling for emergency help. An
unconscious victim will have to be dragged into fresh air.
Caution: do not become poisoned yourself while trying to help.
You may have to put on breathing equipment or protective
clothing to avoid becoming the second victim.
After giving initial first aid, get medical help
immediately. This advice cannot be repeated too often. Bring
the product container with its label to the doctor's office or
emergency room where the victim will be treated; keep the
container out of the passenger space of your vehicle. The
doctor needs to know what chemical is in the pesticide before
prescribing treatment (information that is also on the label).
Sometimes the label even includes a telephone number to call
for additional treatment information.
A good resource in a pesticide emergency is NPTN, the
National Pesticide Telecommunications Network, a toll-free
telephone service. Operators are on call 24 hours a day, 365
days a year, to provide information on pesticides and on
recognizing and responding to pesticide poisonings. If
necessary they can transfer inquiries directly to affiliated
poison control centers.
National Pesticide Telecommunications Network
Call Toll-Free 1-800-858-7378
NPTN operators answer questions about animal as well as
human poisonings. To keep your pets from being poisoned, follow
label directions on flea and tick products carefully, and keep
pets off lawns that have been newly treated with weed killers
and insecticides.
EPA is interested in receiving information on any adverse
effects associated with pesticide exposure. If you have such
information, contact Frank Davido, Pesticide Incident Response
Officer, Field Operations Division (H-7506C), Office of
Pesticide Programs, EPA, 401 M Street, SW., Washington, D C
20460. You should provide as complete information as possible,
including any official investigation report of the incident and
medical records concerning adverse health effects. Medical
records will be held in confidence.
EPA Regional Offices and States Covered
EPA Region 1
JFK Federal Building
Boston, MA 02203
(617) 565-3424
Connecticut, Massachusetts, Maine, New Hampshire, Rhode Island,
Vermont
EPA Region 2
26 Federal Plaza
New York, NY 10278
(212) 264-2515
New Jersey, New York, Puerto Rico, Virgin Islands
EPA Region 3
841 Chestnut Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107
(215) 597-9370
Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia, West Virginia,
District of Columbia
EPA Region 4
345 Courtland Street, N.E.
Atlanta, GA 30365
(404) 347-3004
Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Mississippi, North
Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee
EPA Region 5
230 South Dearborn Street
Chicago, IL 60604
(312) 353-2072
Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Minnesota, Ohio, Wisconsin
EPA Region 6
1445 Ross Avenue
Dallas, TX 75202
(214) 655-2200
Arkansas, Louisiana, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas
EPA Region 7
726 Minnesota Avenue
Kansas City, KS 66101
(913) 551-7003
Iowa, Kansas, Missouri, Nebraska
EPA Region 8
One Denver Place
999 18th Street, Suite 1300
Denver, CO 80202-2413
(303) 293-1692
Colorado, Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Utah, Wyoming
EPA Region 9
75 Hawthorne Street
San Francisco, CA 94105
FTS 8-848-1305
DDD (415) 744-1305
Arizona, California, Hawaii, Nevada, American Samoa, Guam,
Trust Territories of the Pacific
EPA Region 10
1200 Sixth Avenue
Seattle, WA 98101
FTS 8-399-1107
DDD (206) 553-1107
Alaska, Idaho, Oregon, Washington
EPA Headquarters
401 M Street S.W.
Washington, D.C. 20460
(202) 382-4454
United States Environmental Protection Agency
Regional Organization
State Pesticide Agencies
Region 1
Connecticut
Director
Dept. of Environmental Protection
Bureau of Waste Management, Pesticide Division
State Office Building
165 Capitol Avenue
Hartford, CT 06106
(203) 566-5148
Maine
Director
Board of Pesticide Control
Dept. of Agriculture
State House -- Station 28
Augusta, ME 04333
(207) 289-2731
Massachusetts
Chief
Pesticides Bureau
Dept. of Food and Agriculture
100 Cambridge Street, 21st Floor
Boston, MA 02202
(617) 727-3020
New Hampshire
Director
Division of Pesticides Control
Dept. of Agriculture
Caller Box 2042
Concord, NH 03302-2042
(603) 271-3550
Rhode Island
Chief
Division of Agriculture and Marketing
Dept. of Environmental Management
22 Hayes Street
Providence, RI 02908
(401) 277-2781
Vermont
Director
Plant Industry Laboratory of Standards Division
Dept. of Agriculture
116 State St., State Office Bldg
Montpelier, VT 05602
(802) 828-2431
Region 2
New Jersey
Assistant Director,
Pesticide Control Program
NJ Dept. of Environmental Protection
380 Scotch Road CN 411
Trenton, NJ 08625
(609) 530-4123
New York
Director
Bureau of Pesticides
Dept. of Environmental Conservation
Rm. 404, 50 Wolf Rd.
Albany NY 12233-7254
(518) 457-7482
Puerto Rico
Director
Analysis & Registration of Agricultural Materials
Division of Laboratory
Puerto Rico Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 10163
Santurce, PR 00908
(809) 796-1715
Virgin Islands
Director,
Pesticide Programs
Division of Natural Resources Management
Department of Conservation and Cultural Affairs
P.O. Box 4340
St. Thomas, VI 00801
(809) 773-0565
Region 3
Delaware
Delaware Dept. of Agriculture
2320 S. DuPont Highway
Dover, DE 19901
(302) 739-4811
District of Columbia
Pesticide and Hazardous Waste Management Branch,
Environmental Control Division
Room 203
2100 Martin Luther King Avenue S.E.
Washington, D.C. 20020
(202) 404-1167
Maryland
Chief
Pesticide Regulation Section
Maryland Dept. of Agriculture
50 Harry S. Truman Parkway
Annapolis, MD 21401
(301) 841-5710
Pennsylvania
Chief
Agronomic Services
Bureau of Plant Industry
PA Dept. of Agriculture
2301 N. Cameron Street
Harrisburg, PA 17110-9408
(717) 787-4843
Virginia
Supervisor
Office of Pesticide Management
VA Dept. of Agriculture and Consumer Service
P.O. Box 1163
Richmond, VA 23209
(804) 371-6558
West Virginia
Plant Pest Control Division
W VA Dept. of Agriculture
State Capitol Building
Charleston, WV 25305
(304) 348-2212
Region 4
Alabama
Director
Agricultural Chemistry/Plant Industry Division
Alabama Dept. of Agriculture and Industries
P.O. Box 3336
Montgomery, AL 36109-0336
(205) 242-2631
Florida
Administrator
Pesticide Registration Section
Bureau of Pesticides
Division of Inspection
Dept. of Agriculture and Consumer Services
3125 Conner Boulevard
Tallahassee, FL 32399-1650
(904) 487-0532
Georgia
Agricultural Manager
Entomology and Pesticides Division
Dept. of Agriculture
19 Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, S.W.
Atlanta, GA 30334
(404) 656-4958
Kentucky
Director
Division of Pesticides
Kentucky Dept. of Agriculture
500 Metro Street, 7th Floor
Frankfort, KY 40601
(502) 564-7274
Mississippi
Division of Plant Industry
Dept. of Agriculture & Commerce
P.O. Box 5207
Mississippi State, MS 39762
(601) 325-3390
North Carolina
Administrator
Pesticides
Food & Drug Pesticide Section
Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 27647
Raleigh NC 27611-0647
(919) 733-3556
South Carolina
Head
Pesticide
Dept. of Fertilizer/Pest Control
256 Poole Agriculture Center
Clemson University
Clemson, SC 29634-0394
(803) 656-3171
Tennessee
Director
Plant Industries Division
Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 40627, Melrose Station
Nashville, TN 37204
(615) 360-0130
Region 5
Illinois
Chief
Bureau of Plant and Apiary Protection
Dept. of Agriculture
State Fair Ground
P.O. Box 19281
Springfield, IL 62794-9281
(217) 785-2427
Office of Health Regulation
Dept. of Public Health
535 West Jefferson
Springfield, IL 62761
(217) 782-4674
Indiana
Administrator
Pesticide
Office of the State Chemist
Dept. of Biochemistry
Purdue University
West Lafayette, IN 47907
(317) 494-1492
Michigan
Pesticide and Plant Pest Management Division
Dept. of Agriculture
Ottawa Building
N. Tower, 4th Floor
611 W. Ottawa St.
P.O. Box 30017
Lansing, MI 48909
(517) 373-1087
Minnesota
Director
Division of Agronomy Services
Dept. of Agriculture
90 West Plato Blvd.
St. Paul, MN 55107
(612) 296-1161
Ohio
Specialist in Charge of Pesticide Regulation
Division of Plant Industry
Dept. of Agriculture
8995 East Main St.
Reynoldsburg, OH 43068
(614) 866-6361
Wisconsin
Director
Groundwater and Regulatory Service Section
Dept. of Agriculture
Trade and Consumer Protection
801 West Badger Rd.
P.O. Box 8911
Madison, WI 53708
(608) 266-9459
Region 6
Arkansas
Director
Division of Feed, Fertilizer & Pesticides
Arkansas State Plant Board
#1 Natural Resources Dr.
Little Rock, AR 72203
(501) 225-1598
Louisiana
Office of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences
Louisiana Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 3596
Baton Rouge, LA 70821-3596
(504) 925-3763
New Mexico
Director
Division of Agricultural and Environmental Services
N.M. State Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 3005-3AQ 1
N.M. State University
Las Cruces, NM 88003
(505) 545-2133
Oklahoma
Chief
Pest Management Section
Plant Industry Division
Oklahoma State Dept. of Agriculture
2800 N. Lincoln Blvd.
Oklahoma City, OK 73105
(405) 521-3864
Texas
Director
Division of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences
Texas Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 12847
Austin, TX 78711
(512) 463-7534
Region 7
Iowa
Supervisor
Pesticide Control Bureau Section
Iowa Dept. of Agriculture
Henry A. Wallace Building
E. 9th St. & Grand Ave.
Des Moines, IA 50319
(515) 281-8591
Kansas
Director
Plant Health Division
Kansas State Board of Agriculture
109 S.W. 9th Street
Topeka, KS 66612
(913) 296-2263
Missouri
Supervisor
Bureau of Pesticide Control
Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 630
Jefferson City, MO 65102
(314) 751-2462
Nebraska
Director
Bureau of Plant Industry
Nebraska Dept. of Agriculture
301 Centennial Mall South
Lincoln, NE 68509
(402) 471-2341
Region 8
Colorado
Chief,
Pesticide Applicator Section
Division of Plant Industry
Colorado Department of Agriculture
700 Kipling Street Ste 4000
Lakewood, CO 80215-5894
(303) 866-2838
Montana
Administrator
Environmental Management Division
Montana Dept. of Agriculture
Agriculture-Livestock Building
Rm. 317 Capitol Station
6th & Roberts
Helena, MT 59620-0205
(406) 444-2944
North Dakota
Director
Pesticide/Noxious Weed Division
N.D. Dept. of Agriculture
600 East Boulevard, 6th Floor
Bismarck, ND 58505-0020
(701) 224-4756
South Dakota
Director
Division of Regulatory Services
S.D. Dept. of Agriculture
Anderson Bldg.,
445 East Capitol
Pierre, SD 57501
(605) 773-3724
Utah
Director
Division of Plant Industries
Utah Dept. of Agriculture
350 North Redwood Road
Salt Lake City, UT 84116
(801) 538-7123
Wyoming
Manager
Pesticide Division
Wyoming Dept. of Agriculture
2219 Carey Avenue
Cheyenne, WY 82002-0100
(307) 777-6590
Region 9
Arizona
Director
Agricultural Chemical & Environmental Services Division
AZ Commission of Agriculture and Horticulture
1688 West Adam's, Suite 103
Phoenix, AZ 85007
(602) 542-4373
State Chemist
Office of the State Chemist
P.O. Box 1586
Mesa, AZ 85211
(602) 833-5442
Executive Director
Structural Pest Control Commission
1150 S. Priest, Suite 4
Tempe, AZ 85281
(602) 255-3664
California
California Department of Pesticide Regulation
1220 "N" Street
Sacramento, CA 98514
(916) 322-6315
Hawaii
Director
Division of Plant Industry
Hawaii Dept. of Agriculture
1428 South King Street
Honolulu, HI 96814-2512
(808) 548-7119
Nevada
Director
Division of Plant Industry
Nevada Dept. of Agriculture
350 Capitol Hill Avenue
P.O. Box 11100
Reno, NV 89510-1100
(702) 688-1180
Guam
Pesticide Enforcement Officer Guam
Environmental Protection Agency
130 Rojas Street
Harmon, GU 96910
American Samoa
Director
Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 366
Pago Pago, American Samoa 96799
Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands
Executive Officer
Trust Territory
Environmental Protection Board
Office of the High Commissioner
Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands
Saipan, Mariana Islands 96950
Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands
Environmental Engineer
Division of Environmental Quality
Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI)
Dr. Torres Hospital
Saipan, Mariana Island 96950
Region 10
Idaho
Chief
Bureau of Pesticides
Idaho Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 790
Boise, ID 83701
(208) 334-3243
Oregon
Assistant Chief
Plant Division
Oregon Dept. of Agriculture
635 Capitol Street, N.E.
Salem, OR 97310-0110
(503) 378-3776
Washington
Assistant Director,
Pesticide Management Division
Washington Department of Agriculture
406 General Administration Building (AX-41)
Olympia, WA 98504
(206) 753-5062
Alaska
Director
Division of Environmental Health
Alaska Dept. of Environmental Conservation
P.O. Box "O"
Juneau, AK 99811-1800
(907) 465-2609
Pesticide Program Supervisor and Pesticide Specialist
500 South Alaska Street, Suite A
Juneau, AK 99645
(907) 465-2696
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